Review of Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Flyback Aviator Automatic Chronograph

Model # MP6178-SS001-12E

Brand/Model:  Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Flyback Aviator

Movement:   Swiss automatic with in-house modifications

Material:  stainless steel case, alligator strap

Complications:  big date display, month display (annual calendar), chronograph timing in 1/5 second increments up to 12 hours with flyback reset function  

Price:  MSRP $11,000 USD; now discontinued, can be found heavily discounted

Plenty of photos follow the review. Click on the pictures to enlarge.

Maurice Lacroix makes some mighty impressive watches.  The company takes high horology to some interesting places, with a variety of complicated watches featuring moon phases, dual time displays, great movement finishing, chronographs and much more.  The most fascinating part of all this is that many times, you can find Maurice Lacroix watches heavily discounted, which makes them an exceptional value and a must-have for any collection.

The Maurice Lacroix (‘ML’ for short) Masterpiece Flyback Aviator reviewed here is a prime example of the complicated watches the company produces.  This watch of course tells the time, but also features a flyback chronograph.  A flyback mechanism in a chronograph allows the user to reset the chronograph timing back to zero with one push of the reset button, instead of first having to stop the chronograph and then hit the reset button. 

I have to admit that it is a bit disconcerting at first to have the chrono running and be able to push the reset pusher and not have anything bad happen to the watch, but you get used to it and really start enjoying the flyback feature.  With the flyback function, you can also hold the reset button, which resets the chrono to zero and keeps it there until you release the reset button.  Useful in certain timing applications.

In addition to having a flyback chrono, this watch also features a big date display and a month display, which conspire to create an annual calendar.  If you were to wear this watch everyday for a year, you would only have to reset the date once, at the end of February.  In all the other months, the date self-adjusts for 30 or 31 day months.  Pretty slick.  The only thing better is a perpetual calendar, which does not need resetting at all during the course of a year, but a real perpetual calendar watch costs many, many thousands of dollars. 

To be able to have a watch that combines a flyback chronograph with an annual calendar as this ML does and be able to acquire it at a very modest cost makes this watch that much more special.  This watch currently holds the title of the most complicated watch in my collection.

The Masterpiece Collection from ML means that every Masterpiece watch the company creates has to meet specific criteria to carry the ‘Masterpiece’ moniker.  The Masterpiece watches all have the following features per ML’s official documentation:

-exclusive manufacture movements or complications, developed especially for the Masterpiece Collection

-customized and hand-decorated movements with components of the highest quality

-precision tested in 5 positions (fully wound and after 24 hours of operation)

-skeleton rotors on automatic movements (for some reason, the ML Masterpiece watch I am reviewing here does NOT have a skeleton rotor)

-precious solid silver dials

-high-quality folding clasps on straps and bracelets

-screwed caseback with sapphire crystal

This is quite an impressive list and assures the buyer that an ML Masterpiece watch is a very special timepiece.

What attracted me to this particular ML model, aside from its unique feature set, is the way ML has managed to infuse a slightly dressy watch with enough sporting design elements to make it a great all-around watch.  It’s not too fussy, not too casual and oozes quality.  It’s a very clean design that is easy to read and easy to wear.  Nice job!

The ML Flyback Aviator starts with a fully polished all stainless steel case that measures 41.7mm without the signed, screwdown crown; 46.2mm crown inclusive.  Lug width is 20mm, case thickness is 13.5mm.

The caseback is held in place with eight small screws and features a sapphire crystal that shows off the finely decorated movement and signed rotor.  The solid part of the caseback is polished stainless and has engraving signifying this watch as part of the Masterpiece Collection, along with an exclusive serial number.

The case lugs have a stepped design and are fairly short, making this watch wear smaller than its dimensions indicate.  The chronograph pushers are nicely executed and are oval in shape, while the crown has fairly large knurls on it for easy time setting and re-screwing back in.  A tachymeter bezel is set down from the top of the crystal and adds the appropriate amount of sportiness to this watch.  It’s a watch that looks great from just about any angle.

The ML Flyback Chronograph is factory rated for 100 meters of water resistance.

The dial on this watch really shines.  It is made of solid 925 sterling silver and has a perfect satin finish.  All the hands are blued with inset lume and the printed arabics are in a vintage-style font with inset lume.  There are also small lume dots on the extreme outer edge of the chapter ring spaced every five minutes.  Lume quality is very good. 

Below the 12 position is a silver applied ‘ML’ logo and below that is the big date display.  The date is displayed in two separate windows that are asymmetrically shaped.  For the dates 1 through 9, the left window is blank, with the right window showing these single dates.  Some big date watches, such as my Glashutte Original Sport Evolution Panoramic Date display the single dates with a ‘0’ in front of them.  Either way is acceptable to me, but ML’s design looks and works just fine.  Below the big date windows is the ‘Maurice Lacroix’ name in black.

The month display is located at the 4:30 position on an angle and is a bit small and hard to read.  An under-crystal cyclops magnifier helps enlarge the month display, but this window and wheel could be larger for easier at-a-glance reading.  A small nitpick here. 

Alignment of the date wheels inside their respective windows and of the month wheel is good.  The date is a quick set and of course changes the month automatically at either day 30 or 31.  It’s actually fun watching the date wheels do their dance in the big windows and then watching the month wheel click over at the end of each month.  Setting this watch is a horological pleasure.

The subdials are also finished in satin silver and are ever so slightly recessed into the dial with traditional circular patterning.  The shade of silver on the subdials is slightly darker than the silver on the dial, making them easier to read.  The subdial at the 3 position is the watch seconds hand, the subdial at 6 is the 12-hour chrono totalizer and the subdial at 9 is the chrono’s 30-minute totalizer. 

The chrono seconds hand is a simple blue stick with a red tip and below that is a red ‘60’ on the chapter ring.  The chapter ring also has black arabics every five seconds, marking the seconds for the chrono seconds hand, with small black hash marks for the remainder of the chapter ring.  The only other red on the dial is the wording ‘flyback’ above the bottom subdial. 

Overall, the design of the dial is a bit vintage, a bit sporty and best of all, a stand-alone design that doesn’t copy from anybody else.  The blue hour and minute hands are a cinch to read and they look fantastic.  Masterpiece, indeed!

Capping this lovely dial is a flat sapphire crystal without any anti-reflective coating.  Overall build quality of this watch is excellent and under an 8X loupe examination, the dial is clean, the printing is clear and everything looks as it should.

Inside the ML Flyback Chronograph is quite the mechanical marvel of a Swiss automatic movement.  Maurice Lacroix calls this caliber ‘ML15’ and it starts with a base ETA 2892/A2 (itself a fine movement) and adds the popular Dubois-Depraz chronograph module.  Then the craftsmen at the house of ML add another module for the big date and annual calendar functions.  The total jewel count inside this ‘jewel’ of a watch is 49.  Wow!  Pretty cool!  The movement runs at the expected 28,800 vph and also hacks and manually winds. 

During testing in my atelier, the ML Flyback Chronograph has performed well.  All the functions, from setting the date/month, to starting, stopping and flybacking the movement work flawlessly.  Everything resets to zero as it should and the chrono restarts properly when the reset button is released.  Winding action is smooth and silent.

The only quirk I have noticed is with the big date and calendar function during quick setting.  If you adjust the watch to the current date and proceed to set the time, sometimes the date will not always advance at midnight for the following day.  I don’t think this is a defect, because the  month always clicks over at the proper date.  What I do is quickset the watch to one day behind the current date and then manually advance the watch to the proper date to assure the date clicks over at midnight, which it will do and no problems from there on.  There’s just a lot of mechanical wizardry taking place inside the date mechanism with this piece, so you want to make sure to treat it right.

Although ML rates the power reserve at 48 hours, I have achieved only 47 hours, but I can’t really complain.  Timekeeping has averaged +3 over 24 hours, so again, I rate overall performance of this watch as excellent.

The ML Flyback Chronograph comes on a good quality black genuine alligator strap that is moderately padded.  The strap has a matching black stitch and is signed on the inside.  The strap measures 20mm at the lugs and tapers to 18.3mm at the deployant-style clasp.

The clasp is superb, with a polished pushbutton deployant that is signed on the outside and the inside.  It is the type of clasp that retains the loose end of the strap inside your wrist instead of placing it on the outside of the watch, so the strap wears more like a bracelet than a traditional strap.  This also gives the watch a cleaner, more upscale appearance.

Presentation is ‘typical’ ML.  I say ‘typical’ because all the ML watches I have owned pretty much come the same way:  a large two-piece outer cardboard box and a nicely made hinged-top woodgrained plastic inner box with the watch and paperwork inside to complete the presentation.  Nothing over the top nor skimpy.  Just about right.

To put it simply, the Maurice Lacroix Flyback Aviator chronograph is an impressive piece of watchmaking art.  If you are looking for a watch that does a lot, without looking like it does (it’s a clean, non-busy design) this is a great choice.  If you want a high-quality watch with true Swiss heritage that doesn’t look like everything else out there, this is a great choice.  If you want a complicated piece of mechanical movement craftsmanship at a discounted price, this is a great choice.  Pretty much anyway you slice it, the ML Flyback Chronograph is an amazing watch. 

Pros:  interesting combination of useful and unique complications in a clean design, exceptional value when bought discounted, good build quality with genuine silver dial, very legible, great big date design 

Cons: although genuine alligator, strap seems a bit cheap; hopefully all the complications will continue to function properly, crazy MSRP

Verdict:  a superb watch with nifty features that is highly wearable, even as a daily driver.  It’s called a ‘Masterpiece’ for a reason.

 

Thanks for reading and enjoy the pics.

Excelsior!

-Marc

Review of Momo Design Race Master Automatic Chronograph GMT Limited Edition

Model # MD100-03SLSL-MB

Brand/Model:  Momo Design Race Master Automatic Chronograph GMT

Movement:   Swiss automatic

Material:  titanium case and bracelet

Complications:  date display, independently adjustable 24-hour GMT hand, chronograph timing up to 12 hours in 1/5 second increments

Price:  MSRP $5,595 USD

Plenty of photos follow the review. Click on the pictures to enlarge.

Momo Design watches are unsung heroes of the watch collecting world.  I’ve owned four Momo Design watches over the years and the model reviewed here is the best one yet.  Don’t think for a minute that just because the watch says ‘Momo Design’ that it is at best, a fashion watch.  Yes, the company is known for creating some sleek, fashionable designs with many items, but their watches are serious timepieces good enough for many a discriminating collector.

The Race Master model under review here is a great looking, clean, modern design with true functionality.  It carries a full 12-hour chronograph, an independently adjustable 24-hour GMT hand, a bi-directional 24-hour bezel and a world cities chapter ring, so you can track the time in 24 different locations around the globe and also keep track of three time zones simultaneously.  Add in lightweight titanium construction, a robust and extremely accurate Swiss automatic movement and very good build quality and you have one helluva watch!

I admit that I have a penchant for GMT watches.  Not that I really use the GMT tracking function that often, but having this third hand always makes a handy a.m./p.m. indicator at the very least.  I also love chronographs and when a company decides to combine a GMT function and a chronograph into one watch, you have my attention.  Momo has successfully combined these complications into a watch that serves up equal doses of form and function.

The Race Master Chronograph GMT starts with a satin finish titanium case which gives the watch a subdued grey tone that only titanium can impart.  The case measures 44mm without the black signed screwdown crown; 48mm crown included.  And please be aware, this watch does not wear large in any way, due to the design of the lugs.

Case thickness is 15.2mm, ‘lug’ width is approximately 22.5mm.  I say ‘approximately’ because this watch does not have conventional lugs, it has curved end pieces screwed into the case that secure the bracelet to the case and the measurement at the bracelet side of the end piece is 25mm, tapering to the 22.5mm measurement cited above where the bracelet begins.  I will have more on this great design in a moment.

The case back is titanium and is satin finish like the rest of the watch.  It is secured by four small screws and is a display type, showing off the nicely decorated movement and Momo Design signed rotor.

The crown, as mentioned above, is black and screws down.  The chronograph pushers are also black and are asymmetrical rectangles; the wider edge of each pusher is the edge near the crown, and the pushers taper slightly to the sides of the case.  A small, but nifty styling touch.  Please see the photo to understand what I am talking about.

Overall fit and finish on the Race Master is very good, with no sharp edges or mis-aligned case pieces, although the limited edition plaque on the dial is ever so slightly crooked and the date wheel could be aligned slightly better.  These are relatively small complaints and don’t detract from the joy of wearing and using this watch.  Momo Design assembles these watches in Italy, using Swiss Made movements.

The case also features a bi-directional 24-hour bezel, with hour markings for each even hour (02, 04, etc.) and small dots for the odd hours (although the odd hours are represented on the chapter ring).  See?  It’s all about the details! 

The markings on the bezel are black and the bezel also has square cutouts above each odd hour dot, for both style and to aid in gripping the bezel.  Not that the bezel is hard to turn; on the contrary, the bezel moves very easily in either direction through 120-clicks. 

I was initially worried that the bezel would rotate itself while the watch was being worn, but this has proved to not be the case, so no worries.  Although having a 24-hour GMT bezel with so many clicks is a bit awkward, it should rotate through only 24 clicks for ease of use and precision, but this is a small nit to pick.

The dial on the Race Master might appear to be very busy to some, and I admit it is a bit cluttered, but not in a garish or nonsensical way.  What I mean is there is no extraneous writing or overly designed elements that make it busy, it’s all function while retaining that Momo Design style.

The dial is a light silver, almost white color and is clear and easy to read, especially since the hands are black and white striped, which provides good contrast.  The dial has a very fine waffle pattern and minimal printing.  The name ‘MomoDesign’ is emblazoned in small type at the 3 position, with ‘Race Master’ and the watch serial number immediately below the brand name (limited edition of 500).  Momo also snuck in ‘Automatico’ on the edge of the seconds hand subdial.  It’s so subtle, you almost don’t know it’s there.

The hour and minute hands are black and white striped with inset lume.  There are also black rectangular markers on the outer edge of the chapter ring at each five minute mark.  These markers are also luminous, but lume quality on the Race Master is rather weak. 

The hands are also a bit too short for my tastes, but have been made this way to allow for the GMT hand to be easily read when it’s near the minute hand on the dial, so this is an acceptable compromise to me.

The GMT hand is black with a red arrow tip.  The chronograph seconds hand is red, with the subdial hands being black with red tips.  The subdial at 12 is the 30-minute chronograph totalizer; the subdial at 6 is the 12-hour chronograph totalizer and the subdial at 9 is the watch seconds hand. 

The subdials are artfully surrounded by a grey metal stamping that is made to mimic a race track.  The surround gives the subdials a slight inset look and each subdial also has a circular patterning to it.  Depending on which subdial you’re looking at, the markings are either all black or a combination of black and red.

The chapter ring is a bit of a deep dish design and carries the luminous markers, minute and 1/5 second hash marks on the top edge.  The top side of the chapter ring also has the odd numbered hours for use with the GMT hand. 

On the inside edge of the chapter ring are the world cities to allow for world timing.  ‘GMT’ is in red at the top of the ring at the 12 spot, with other cities listed in black.  At the 9 position, the grey surround that encircles the subdials also carries three city names in white on its far left edge, another unique and useful detail. 

There is one part of the cities ring I don’t quite understand.  The last two positions on the ring between the 11 and 12 positions have ‘-2H’ and ‘-1H’ instead of a city name.  I’m sure this is to aid in checking time elsewhere, but I have never seen this listed on a world timer before.

A white on black date wheel is at the 4 position and alignment of the wheel within the window could be a bit better, as the top edge of the date numeral is close to the edge of the window.  The date is quickset by rotating the crown (in its first-click setting position) in a clockwise direction and the GMT hand is set by rotating the crown in the counter-clockwise direction.  This is a quirk of Valjoux 77xx-based chrono GMT movements, as non-chrono ETA GMT movements set their dates and GMT hands opposite of this.

Capping the dial is a flat anti-reflective sapphire crystal that in certain positions, makes it appear as if there is no crystal on the watch at all.  There is a slight bluish cast to the anti-reflective coating at certain angles, but nothing too distracting.

The Race Master chronograph GMT is factory rated for a typical 100 meters of water resistance.

Inside the Race Master, Momo Design installs a Swiss Made Valjoux 7754 automatic chronograph GMT movement.  This workhorse of an engine has 25 jewels and beats at 28,800 vph (4 hz).  This movement is highly finished and shows off blued screws, polished pieces and perlage, so you know it’s a quality unit.  I applaud Momo Design for equipping the Race Master with such a fine movement, especially since these watches can be found heavily discounted, making them an outstanding value.

My Race Master has performed outstandingly well both on and off the wrist.  Timekeeping is at the top of my collection, measuring no more than two seconds a day fast; most times it runs at +1/24 hours.  Exceptional!  Power reserve is also no slouch, clocking in at a solid 54.5 hours. 

All functions of the watch, from standard time and date setting, to manual winding, to setting the GMT hand work as they should.  The chrono pushers click with authority and all the chrono hands reset crisply to zero.  Absolutely no complaints on the mechanical end of things with the Race Master.

The place where the Race Master really shows its Italian design heritage is in the bracelet department.  It combines style, ingenuity and comfort to create a look that helps set this watch apart from the crowd.  Even though the bracelet is what would be considered an integrated design, it hugs the wrist beautifully.

Where the bracelet attaches to the end link on the case side, the design of the end link allows the bracelet to pivot freely, therefore giving a nice, wrist-hugging fit.  As I stated early on, this watch does not wear like a 44mm watch, due in large part to the design of the bracelet.  A big thumbs up from me.

The bracelet is a solid link, all titanium affair with beautifully sculpted cutouts on each link, giving the bracelet a unique look and one that does not pull any hairs.  The bracelet measures about 22.5mm at the case where it attaches to the end links that are screwed directly into the case and 22mm at the pushbutton butterfly clasp, which is also titanium. 

Since the clasp is a hidden type, one of the links at the end of the clasp is signed with the MomoDesign script.  The links themselves are rather small, measuring only 6.7mm wide, so be prepared to remove plenty of links when sizing the bracelet.

The links are held together with standard split pins and Momo provides half links to make sure a proper fit is achieved. 

The only negative to this bracelet design is that it precludes installing a rubber or leather strap on this watch.  You’re pretty much stuck with the bracelet, but it’s not a bad place to be.

Presentation is via an enormous box inside a two piece cardboard box.  The inner box has a large silver ‘MomoDesign’ logo on it and has a black piano lacquer type finish.  The box is really too big, but it is impressive nonetheless.

To put the Momo Design Race Master automatic chronograph GMT into perspective means that this one watch can do double or triple duty for many people.  For those that value style above all else, this one has it in spades.  For those that want multi-functionality, this is a powerhouse.  And for those that want comfort and lightweight, the Race Master come through as well.

Momo Design has a real winner here and if you look hard enough, you can get a great price on this watch and be confident in knowing that you have an exclusive, well-designed, well-made automatic timepiece that is stylish to boot.  A great job all-around!

Pros:  multi-functional with useful complications, lightweight titanium construction, high-quality and extremely accurate Swiss automatic movement, great Italian style, lots of nice details, great bracelet design

Cons:  weak and sparse lume, hands a bit short, 24-hour bezel rotates too easily and has too many clicks, dial a bit too busy for some, hard to read small print on city chapter ring

Verdict:  a super all-around watch that has looks and features you won’t find every day, especially when bought at a discount

 

Thanks for reading and enjoy the pics.

Excelsior!

-Marc